Between family vacations and trips with friends, I have gone camping, backpacking, and hiking several times in the States. However, nothing could have prepared me for camping Chilean style. Armed with the the latest Chilean issue of Cosmo, imported marshmallows, and an ample supply of junk food, I boarded the bus Friday morning with twenty of my CIEE comrades. The bus ride to Parque Nacional de Campana took us north past countless mountain ranges, including the highest mountain in the "Four Americas," according to our program directors. No one was ever quite able to figure out what the fourth America could be...
As the bus pulled into the campground, we began pressing against the windows, unable to believe our eyes. Though the view was impressive, tropical-looking mountains covered in palm trees and cacti, our astonishment resulted from countless cows meandering through our campsites. Throughout our stay, they backed into tents, ate the food off the grill, and caused general confusion (though they provided an unparalleled photo opportunity!) The "cow situation" was only matched by the dangers of the overhanging palm trees, which dropped the occasional baseball size coconut onto the unsuspecting campers below. While our bus driver crawled around gathering the coconuts and extracting their fruit with his pocket knife, the program directors fired up the grill for my first Chilean barbeque.
Choripan (Chilean brats) and grilled onions comprised the main meal, and after exploring the surrounding area we were ready to break out the marshmallows, chocolate, and galletas de mantequilla (literally, "butter crackers," since graham is nonexistent here) and indulge in a favorite US tradition. However, due to the dry conditions, we were unable to have a camp fire, and had to be satisfied with sitting around a few candles; alas, the hardships of the great outdoors.
Saturday morning brought the continuation of another tradition, CIEE`s annual program hike up the mountain (more commonly referred to as "The March de Muerte."
Still recovering from the previous night`s festivities (and surprised by the unseasonably high temperatures) we reluctantly threw on our zapatillos (tennis/hiking shoes) and started up the mountain. After hours of ascent, we emerged at one end of a lush ravine, and were rewarded by a breathtaking view of a waterfall cascading down the opposite side, surrounded by misty rainbows. Our guide encouraged us to disregard the signs proclaiming "Peligroso" (Danger), crawl through the fence, and climb around near the top of the waterfall. The water from the spring feeding the waterfall was clean enough to drink, and we had a great time splashing each other and waiting for someone to fall in. The walk back was much easier; highlights included a tarantula crossing the trail (we tried not to think too hard about sleeping in tents) and a fellow hiker playing a digeridoo.
The subsequent bus ride was much more comfortable; temperatures dropped into the teens (Celcius) as we neared the coast. Our camping-resort, north of Cuncòn, included a game room, restaurant, and beach access. The CIEE students, anxious to affirm our camping skills, proceeded to set up our tents at the first flat ground we encountered (which ended up being in the middle of a road.) After moving the tents off the road, we set out for the beach to enjoy the Pacific sunset, noting huge clumps of hose-like seaweed every few steps. After onces (the meal between lunch and dinner) a few of us returned to the beach to build a bonfire and enjoy the stars. My saco de dormir (sleeping bag, borrowed from a neighbor,) proved a little thin for the coastal temperatures, and I ended up layering every available piece of clothing to stay warm.
I love these weekend trips (though they are far from relaxing!) However, it is always nice to come back to civilization and tarantula-free sleeping conditions.
chile