I have a new appreciation for air travel. After countless day long bus trips on overheated, cramped TurBus where the staff feels the need to open or close your individual curtains a few times every hour (and they must not be touched by the passengers!), Air Canda looked pretty tempting. Thus, a two hour plane ride, complete with imported chocolates and sinks with hot running water (we don´t even have that at my apartment in Santiago!) was close to travel paradise-though slightly more expensive than buses.

Arrival at the airport late last night brought the usual attack of rental car drivers and aggressive hostal recruiters. Fortunately, we already had reservations in barrio San Telmo, at a hostal which I remembered as "La Ciudad de Tango." However, numerous requests brought blank stares from information desk workers, security guards, and (when all other options had failed) the janitor. Finally, I resorted to English. "Tango City?" I asked hesitantly..."Aahhh, Tango City!" exclaimed the relieved Traveler Services official, and promptly whipped out a brochure.

Tango City is, as my friend just noted, Lonely Planet in a hostal, complete with a freight elevator, a pool table, chandeliers and bean bags. Though our taxi driver warned us that San Telmo (our current home in the 22 barrios that make up Buenos Aires) is next to the city's most dangerous neighborhood, La Boca, he assured us that the neighborhood´s countless Bohemian restaurants and off-the-beaten-track stores make any extra risk worthwhile.

After dropping our luggage, my friend and I decided to go out for pizza with two girls from Seattle who we met in the hotel lobby. They are currently finished with school and spending five solid months traveling around South America, free from the constraints of a university schedule. Someday, someday. Aside from the impressive pizza (complete with decent white wine and garlic fries for less than $3/person,) one of the highlights of the place included the fact that the staff did not try to speak to us in English. Although the majority of people I have met in South America do not speak English, those who do are often anxious to practice.

Buenos Aires was, at first glance (keeping in mind that it was dark and our sole perspective so far was from the backseat of an airport taxi) a very diverse city, and much bigger than Santiago with approximately 11 million residents. Massive cathedrals loom next to modern skyscrapers, and, of course, we are right along the Atlantic coast. In the epitomé of contrasts, beneath the ornate buildings and gourmet restaurants the streets (at least in our neighborhood) were filled last night with locals sorting through garbage, looking for recyclable items which they can exchange for cash. Apparently Argentina´s economic plunge in 2000 had effects more adverse than the low pizza prices.

Plans for the weekend include visiting the old Gothic cemetery, various sites from Evita, a couple ferías (huge craft fairs,) a day trip to Uruguay, and, of course, the requisite tango show. Time to go exploring.....